TENDERS: 8,5K gallon, 12K gallon, 15K gallon, 20K gallon, MALLET 12K gallon, TURTLEBACK, BLUE GOOSE

Tenders, 8500 gallon, 12000 gallon, 15000 gallon, 20000 gallon, Mallet 12000 gallon, Turtleback 3000 Class, Blue Goose conversion

                                     scroll down and click on pictures to enlarge                                                           

STARTING JANUARY 2020 TENDERS WILL ONLY BE AVAILABLE ASSEMBLED (TRUCKS AND BODY) AND PRIMED.

TRUCKS HAVE BEEN REDESIGNED (3D PRINTED FRAMES FROM NOW ON).

YOU ONLY HAVE TO PAINT AND DECAL, ADD WHEIGHT (AND DECODER) AND MAKE THE CONNECTION ENGINE/TENDER.


12000 GALLON               KIT 401   12000 GALLON                KIT 401                  15000 GALLON               KIT 402    15000 GALLON             KIT 402

20000 GALLON              KIT 403     20000 GALLON             KIT 403                    MALLET                         KIT 404      MALLET                        KIT 404

TURTLEBACK                 KIT 405    TURTLEBACK                 KIT 405                   BLUE GOOSE  20K         KIT 411     BLUE GOOSE  20K     KIT 411

8500 GALLON                              KIT 400                  8500 GALLON                               KIT 400                ARCHBAR TENDER TRUCKS ASSEMBLED

                                                                                                                                                                     UNPAINTED

TRUCKS 12000/15000 GALLON                                 TRUCKS 20000 GALLON                                             TRUCKS MALLET/TURTLEBACK


KIT NUMBER/NAME and CONTENTS (see PRICELIST for prices)


N-400 Steam engine tender 8,5K. completely assembled kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, assembled trucks, wheels, primed (but not painted, no decals)

N-401 Steam engine tender 12K. completely assembled kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, assembled trucks, wheels, primed but not painted, (no decals)

N-402 Steam engine tender 15K. completely assembled kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, assembled trucks, wheels, primed but not painted (no decals)

N-412 Steam engine tender 15K. ONLY brass etchings, assembled trucks, wheels (less body, coupler and decals)

N-410 Steam engine tender trucks for 12K and 15K tender. assembled 6-wheel trucks and wheels (all wheel current pickup)

N-403 Steam engine tender 20K.  completely assembled kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, assembled trucks, wheels, primed but not painted (no decals) (OUT OF STOCK FOR TIME BEING)

N-411 Steam engine tender 20K plus Blue Goose conversion.  completely assembled kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, assembled trucks, wheels, primed but not painted (no decals) (OUT OF STOCK FOR TIME BEING)

N-413 Steam engine tender trucks for 20K tender. assembled heavy 6-wheel trucks and wheels (all wheel current pickup)

N-404 Steam engine tender 12K MALLET. completely assembled kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, trucks (MTL), wheels, primed but not painted (no decals)

N-414 Steam engine tender 12K MALLET. ONLY brass etchings, trucks (MTL), wheels (less body, coupler and decals)

N-405 Steam engine tender 12K TURTLEBACK. completely assembled kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, trucks (MTL), wheels, primed but not painted (no decals)

N-415 Steam engine tender 12K TURTLEBACK. ONLY brass etchings, trucks (MTL), wheels (less body, coupler, decals)

N-416 Steam engine tender trucks for 8.5K tender. assembled 4-wheel ARCHBAR trucks and wheels (all wheel current pickup)



CLICK ON LINKS BELOW FOR COMPLETE SETS OF 3D PRINTED BODY PART IF YOU PREFER PRINTS INSTEAD OF CASTINGS.

8500 GALLON TENDER

8500 GALLON                               LEFT SIDE          8500 GALLON                               RIGHT SIDE       RESIN CAST VERSION

ARCHBAR TRUCKS                                             PARTS          ARCHBAR TRUCKS                                 ASSEMBLED               3D PRINTED VERSION

TSUNAMI DECODER AND 11X15  SUGAR CUBE             MODEL POWER 2-6-0 CONVERSION.

ZIMO DECODER  MX648                                                              ATHEARN 2-8-0 TENDER DRIVE CONVERSION         AND 8 X 12 MM SUGAR CUBE SPEAKER                                8 X 16 MM CORELESS MOTOR + LEAD WHEIGHT

Instructions 8500 gallon version.



Very good and useful reference text and pictures can be found in the book Steam Locomotives of the Santa Fe, a former Shopman’s Scrapbook, by Frank M. Ellington, published by Railroad Car Press, the book Iron Horses of the Santa Fe Trail, by E.D. Worley, published by  the Southwest Railroad Historical Society, and on various internet websites. 


There are 2 versions: Shapeways prints (ordered directly by you from Shapeways) or resin castings (ordered through this website).

The difference/choice has a reason: if you need as much room as possible inside the tender body you need the 3D prints. All body walls of the resin casting are 1 mm thicker.

I use the 3D printed version for a MDC/Roundhouse/Athearn rebuild of the 2-8-0 into engine number 664, one of the last 2-8-0's retired in 1953 and still present in Travel Town Los Angeles (special etching for engine modifications will be available through this website).

That conversion means: motor (8 x 16 mm coreless), sounddecoder (Zimo MX648), speaker (sugar cube 8 x 12 mm) plus all the wiring and some lead wheight will have to fit inside the small tendershell, so all available room is needed.


The resin cast tenders come completely assembled and primed (Mr Primer Surface 1000 diluted).

The only thing you have to do is paint with your own favourite brand.

Decals can be found on Microscale set 60-363.


The wheelsets are modified Fox Valley Models sets  (I still have a some supply at this moment - Feb 2020). You may choose FINE THREAD or WIDE THREAD wheel design. I like the first ones but the second ones still have small flanges and are less tricky than the first, especially backing up through some turnouts.

To create all-wheel electrical pickup the original axles are cut in half and joined again using an insulated 3D printed sleeve.


To separate the tender top from its underframe you first have the remove the 4 corner screws from the underside.

You also have to remove the scew holding the coupler (it penetrates the top body shell).

When you assemble the tender again take care to leave a little slack in the electrical wires (between the trucks and the frameholes).

Also do not overtighten screws.

If the MTL truckpins become a little loose (too easy to remove or put back) you can squeeze the narrow/lowest part of the pins with square tweezers a bit to flatten them slightly. 


The electrical connections from the trucks also have 2 versions.

Solder leads on the long vertical pins or remove the present shrink tubing, cut the vertical tab of the etching in two, solder leads to the shortened leads ON THE OUTSIDE of the tabs and install new shrink tubing (supplied, see picture).

The second version leaves a lot more room inside the tender shell because the top of the tabs is now slightly below the top of the tender floor.


You will have to add some lead wheight (tender is too light otherwise resulting in less than optimal tracking and electrical pickup) and fabricate a drawbar/connection between tender and engine. Be careful the drawbar puts no "lifting force" on the engine (that would result in loss of tractive force).


The pictures above also show some suggestions for decoder and sound/speaker installation.

The first 2 pictures show a Tsunami sound decoder + sugar cube + capacitor. There is extra lead wheight inside the tender shell sides the whole length of the shell. This is a cast resin shell + underframe (shell walls are a bit thicker than 3D print).

The second 2 pictures show a Shapeways 3D printed shell + underframe (shell printed in 5 flat parts). This is a conversion for the MDC/Athearn 2-8-0 to create a credible replica of engine 664. End of service 1953 and donated to Travel Town LA. Inside the tender shell is a 8 x 16 mm coreless motor, a Zimo MX648 sound decoder and a 8 x 12 mm Zimo sugar cube speaker + some extra lead wheight.


One word of caution: be careful there is absolutely no strain/force on the wires connecting the tender and engine. Use thin and very flexible (decoder) wire. Any external force will result in loss of electrical contact (wheels/rail). Álso be sure the trucks can swivel (very) freely; connections between tabs and decoder should also be thin and very flexible wire.



12000 and 15000 GALLON TENDER

TENDER 12000 GALLON                                                         PARTS                  TENDER 15000 GALLON                                                         PARTS

TENDER 12000 GALLON                                 UNDERSIDE/TRUCKS                   TENDER 15000 GALLON                                UNDERSIDE/TRUCKS

TENDER 12000 GALLON                                                  DECODER                   TENDER 15000 GALLON                                                  DECODER

TENDER 12000 GALLON                                                    DECODER                 TENDER 15000 GALLON                                                  DECODER

Instructions 12000/15000 gallon version.



Very good and useful reference text and pictures can be found in the book Steam Locomotives of the Santa Fe, a former Shopman’s Scrapbook, by Frank M. Ellington, published by Railroad Car Press, the book Iron Horses of the Santa Fe Trail, by E.D. Worley, published by  the Southwest Railroad Historical Society, and on various internet websites. 


The tenders come completely assembled and primed (Mr Primer Surface 1000 diluted).

The only thing you have to do is paint with your own favourite brand.

Decals can be found on Microscale set 60-363.


The wheelsets are modified Fox Valley Models sets  (I still have a reasonable supply at this moment). The wheels are LOW PROFILE wheelthread design because bigger wheelthreads do not fit inside these trucks (due to close axle spacing).To create all-wheel electrical pickup the original axles are cut in half and joined again using an insulated 3D printed sleeve.


To separate the tender top from its underframe you first have the remove the 2 trucks which are held in place by 2 miniature woodscrews.

With the trucks removed the 4 corner screws are exposed and can be removed.

You also have to remove the scew holding the coupler (it penetrates the top body shell).

When you assemble the tender again take care to leave a little slack in the electrical wires (between the trucks and the frameholes). When you reattach the truckscrews just barely tighten them till the trucks do not move anymore and then release the srews 1/4 turn. This will leave enough room for troublefree operation.  


You will have to add some lead wheight and fabricate a drawbar/connection between tender and engine.


The pictures above also show some suggestions for decoder and sound/speaker installation.

 


20000 GALLON TENDER


TENDER 20000 GALLON                                                         PARTS                   TENDER 20000 GALLON                                 UNDERSIDE/TRUCKS

TENDER 20000 GALLON                                                   DECODER                   TENDER 20000 GALLON                                                  DECODER

Instructions ATSF 20000 gallon version.


Very good and useful reference text and pictures can be found in the book Steam Locomotives of the Santa Fe, a former Shopman’s Scrapbook, by Frank M. Ellington, published by Railroad Car Press, the book Iron Horses of the Santa Fe Trail, by E.D. Worley, published by  the Southwest Railroad Historical Society, and on various internet websites. 


The tenders come completely assembled and primed (Mr Primer Surface 1000 diluted).

The only thing you have to do is paint with your own favourite brand.

Decals can be found on Microscale set 60-363.


To separate the tender top from its underframe you first have the remove the 2 trucks which are held in place by 2 MTL truckpins.

With the trucks removed the 4 corner screws are exposed and can be removed.

You also have to remove the scew holding the coupler (it penetrates the top body shell).

When you assemble the tender again take care to leave a little slack in the electrical wires (between the trucks and the frameholes).

If the MTL truckpins become a little loose (too easy to remove or put back) you can squeeze the narrow/lowest part of the pins with square tweezers a bit to flatten them slightly. 


You will also have to add some lead wheight and fabricate a drawbar/connection between tender and engine.


The pictures above also show some suggestions for decoder and sound/speaker installation.




MALLET AND TURTLEBACK TENDER

TENDER MALLET 12000 GALLON                                                           PARTS                         TENDER TURTLEBACK 3000 CLASS                                                              PARTS

TENDER MALLET 12000 GALLON                              UNDERSIDE/TRUCKS                         TENDER TURTLEBACK 3000 CLASS                                 UNDERSIDE/TRUCKS

TENDER MALLET 12000 GALLON                                    DECODER

TENDER MALLET 12000 GALLON                                    DECODER

Instructions Mallet and Turtleback version.


Very good and useful reference text and pictures can be found in the book Steam Locomotives of the Santa Fe, a former Shopman’s Scrapbook, by Frank M. Ellington, published by Railroad Car Press, the book Iron Horses of the Santa Fe Trail, by E.D. Worley, published by  the Southwest Railroad Historical Society, and on various internet websites. 


The tenders come completely assembled and primed (Mr Primer Surface 1000 diluted).

The only thing you have to do is paint with your own favourite brand.

Decals can be found on Microscale set 60-363.


The wheelsets are modified Fox Valley Models sets  (I still have a reasonable supply at this moment). You may choose LOW PROFILE or STANDARD wheelthread design. To create all-wheel electrical pickup the original axles are cut in half and joined again using an insulated 3D printed sleeve.


To separate the tender top from its underframe you first have the remove the 2 trucks which are held in place by 2 MTL truckpins.

With the trucks removed the 4 (or 3 in case of the turtleback tender) corner screws are exposed and can be removed.

You also have to remove the scew holding the coupler (it penetrates the top body shell).

When you assemble the tender again take care to leave a little slack in the electrical wires (between the trucks and the frameholes).

If the MTL truckpins become a little loose (too easy to remove or put back) you can squeeze the narrow/lowest part of the pins with square tweezers a bit to flatten them slightly. 


You will also have to add some lead wheight and fabricate a drawbar/connection between tender and engine.


The pictures above also show some suggestions for decoder and sound/speaker installation.



 


20000 GALLON TENDER BLUE GOOSE CONVERSION

TENDER BLUE GOOSE 3460 CLASS                               ASSEMBLED and PRIMED                    TENDER BLUE GOOSE 3460 CLASS              SHAPEWAYS 3D PRINTED PARTS

The conversion of the 20000 gallon tender (see building instructions above) to the Blue Goose shrouded version consists of minor truck adjustments and applying the shrouding to the top of the bodyshell and the bottom of the underbody/floor.

The top shrouding requires minor filing adjustments to the 3D print and front corners of the tender to create a snug fit. Some ACC glue will do the rest. Turning the shell upside down the underbody shrouding is applied between the tool boxes and end steps.

Last adjustment are to the trucks. Because of the lower side of the body (and we don't want to raise the tender/floor/coupler) the tops of the trucks are filled down till they are level with the brass etchings to allow for clearance between truck and superstructure on curves. This is of course unprototypical but hardly noticeable because the tops of the trucks normally disappear completely under the lower body. Everything being black also helps a lot. There should remain about 0,5 mm clearance between truck and underside of the shell.


You will have to make a hole/room for the wires going from engine to tender. Depending on how many that are (DC or DCC) decide how large and where you want to make it. The resin is very easy to cut/drill/file. Example of a hole can be seen in the right hand picture above (below the box on the tender front). You might also have to add some lead wheight to bring the tender to your desired car wheight (works also to improve railcontact). 


Painting/colors of the Blue Goose is a different matter. Looking through older converations on different websites I found the following best match: Floquil Polly Scale British Azure Blue F505262 for the dark blue and Model Masters Enamel Paint Duck Egg Blue FS35622 for the "light" blue. The first is hard to find, the second readily available. The band is stainless steel on the prototype. Take whatever color/brand you like best to simulate this.

Decals are from Microscale set 60-1164.

A little Dullcote finish completes the model.