EMC 2611 transfer/road switcher, rebuilt from EMC 1A booster

                                      scroll down and click on pictures to enlarge



RTR model (example only) front left side                                       RTR model (example only) front right side

RTR model (example only) rear right side                                       RTR model (example only) rear left side

KIT 445/455, cleaned and primed shell.

All handrails, steps, couplers and chassis/drive/trucks have been added already (not included in kit). Front left.

KIT 445/455, cleaned and primed shell.

All handrails, steps, couplers and chassis/drive/trucks have been added already (not included in kit). Rear right.

KIT 446 Basic drive train: Samhongsa EMD friction bearing FT trucks, gear towers with metal gears, Mashima/Tokyo motor, lengthened drive shafts, 2 mm styrene frame, DC, LED lighting with resistors front and back.

KIT 445/455, cleaned and primed shell.

All handrails, steps, couplers and chassis/drive/trucks have been added already (not included in kit). Front right.

KIT 445/455, cleaned and primed shell.

All handrails, steps, couplers and chassis/drive/trucks have been added already (not included in kit). Rear left.

YouTube movie to show the very good and silent slow speed movement of this setup.

Completed chassis as described below: lead wheights added (total engine wheight 168 grams or 5,92 ounces), Soundtraxx Econami EMD 567 sound decoder, sugar cube speaker with custom made 1 mm styrene baffle, capacitor, LED head and back lighting with resistors.


N-445 EMC 2611, 3D printed engine shell only, cleaned, aluminum grit blasted and primed.

N-446 Drive train for EMC 2611, Samhongsa FT trucks (all metal gears) and motor, styrene chassis, improved all-wheel pickup, DC, LED lights front and back, see picture above (ONLY A LIMITED NUMBER  AVAILABLE)

       EMC 2611 also available through my Shapeways shop (ATSF EMC 2611) in TAN Fine Detail Plastic



In 1934 the Santa Fe ordered their first two passenger diesels from Electro Motive Corporation: the Twin Spots or Amos and Andy, powered by two 900 HP Winton 201A engines each. They were delivered in August 1935 and were intended for the then heavywheight Super Chief.

There were numerous (smaller) changes to the looks during the first years, skirting partially removed, extra cooling equipment on the roof, different paint schemes.

In 1937 the engines pulled the then new lightwheight Super Chief.

In 1938 the were rebuilt into the 1 Spot and 10 Spot, with 1 raised - bulldog nose - cab each, better cooling systems and painted in warbonnet style. Also the lead truck was changed to 6-wheel, with the lead axle unpowered.

The units were now used primarely on Eastern Lines passenger trains. Very shortly afterwards the rear trucks were also changed to 6-wheel, with again the lead axle unpowered.

In 1941 the 10 Spot was converted to booster 1A by removing the raised bulldog nose cab.

In 1948 this 1A booster was converted to transfer/road switcher 2611, riding on 2 EMD FT trucks. It was first used in the Los Angeles area but later transferred to the Eastern Lines.

Both units were returned to EMD in 1953. They were rebuilt into two EMD E8m engines, numbers 83A and 84A.

Al lot of useful information can be found in THE ONE SPOT TWINS by Larry E. Brasher, published by the Santa Fe Railway Historical and Modeling Society. Also IRON HORSES by E.D. Worley (the motive power handbook) and SANTA FE's EARLY DIESEL DAZE by John B. McCall and searching the internet provides much information.



There are different possibilities to build/make a frame/chassis/drive for EMC 2611.

First you have KIT 446 (see above): I have a limited supply of DRIVE TRAINS coming from surplus Samhongsa EMD FT models. They have the correct square friction bearing EMD Blomberg trucks with all metal worm gears (no chance of cracking like the plastic double gears sometimes used to do). Perfect slow speed control, heavy and not much noise at scale speeds. All wheel current pickup with improved wipers (on insulated wheels only, other side goes through metal truck frame). The model pictured above, wheighing almost 6 ounces, pulled a 52 car reefer train around my layout (0,5 % grade max) with ease.

This frame is set up for DC,  with LED's/resistors for head and rear lights.There is more than enough room to add (lead) wheight and, if you want DCC, enough room for a decoder (of your choice) with or without sugar cube speaker/sound. I was able to create a total model wheight of almost 6 ounces (massive lead fuel tank, lead sheet alongside the drive shafts and inside the shell up against the roof)...... a lot more than the already heavy Kato E8/9. See pictures above for this setup.

The 6 small white styrene blocks glued on top of the 2 mm thick styrene chassis baseplate just touch an inside ridge within the shell keeping the shell level and the MTL 1015 couplers (fixed onto the shell) at the correct height. The base plate is 1 mm higher than the underside of hte sides.

Second you can take just about any plastic narrow hood EMD model (Geeps are perfect) with Blomberg trucks if you overlook the fact all these models have roller bearing tucks...... only close up view will reveal that. The frame has to be cut (normal metal handsaw with frame in a vise) on one side between motor and gear tower. If you flatten (metal file with frame in a vise) the side of the metal frame first you can just CA glue some spare/scrap 0,5 or 1 mm thick metal/brass strip along both sides of the remaining frame and geartower, creating a stiff/sturdy new frame. The only critical measure is the trucks centers, they should be 73 mm apart.

The only extra job is lengthening one drive shaft a couple of mm. Glue (CA Zap a Gap medium is my preferred glue for this) some 1,5 mm inside diameter brass tube as a sleeve over one gear tower worm shaft, insert some 1,5 mm steel rod and cut to length (with a Dremel grinding disk). Re-attach the black plastic block to connect with the flywheel. Be sure there remains some "play" in the re-assembled drive train. If the lengthened drive shaft shows a slight wobble you can bend (carefully) the brass sleeve a bit to re-align the shaft.

A third plossibility (if you want to have the correct friction bearing EMB Blomberg trucks) is to use an Intermountain or Micro Trains Line EMD FT model. I have not done that myself but studying pictures of the frame on Spookshow I think those frames could be cut and lengthened the same way. There should be more that enough room inside the shell to fit the adapted frame.


If you buy the shell from Shapeways you have to clean/de-grease it first and my favourite second treatment is aluminum grit blasting with an Air Eraser.

These methods have been described and discussed in THE RAILWIRE forum many times (and many other places on the internet).

If you buy the shell from me you will get it treated like described above and also primed with diluted MR. SURFACER PRIMER 1000.

Check all holes for handrails/grips/steps with a 0,5 mm drill (nose and rear end, sides and undersides).

Shape all handrails and handgrips using  pliers and 0,015 brass wire (I used Tichy Train Group 1102). Glue from the inside using CA glue. The side steps/ladders are a different matter. I found some spare ladders in my scrapbox that fit the job perfectly. The holes for these are 3 mm apart. The corner steps are straight, the steps/ladders under the side doors have an outward angle. Check prototype pictures for these steps/ladders and their shape.

After the CA glue has dried remove all "buldges" on the inside of the shell using your Dremel with a grinding bit.

At this point I also added extra wheight: several layers of 1 mm lead sheet cut to fit the room above the chassis (decoder and speaker/baffle). I glued these pieces of lead sheet against the roof, helps also in keeping the shell on the chassis.

Clean/degrease the model before painting. I suggest to first airbrush the model again with a primer - mainly the brass details - and next with a glossy black paint of your choice.

Decalling is the following step. Microscale Decals 71154 (silver striping) and 60-274 or 60-284 provide all necessary parts.

Study prototype pictures in advance to get familiar with the orientation of the safety striping or check above the pictures of my finished model. Microscale Krystal Klear is the best solution ot create the windows in my opinion.

A light coating with Dullcote (and maybe wheathering) is the last step.

Enjoy your model!