Tenders, 12000 gallon, 15000 gallon, 20000 gallon, Mallet12000 gallon, Turtleback 3000 Class, Blue Goose

Tenders, 12000 gallon, 15000 gallon, 20000 gallon, Mallet 12000 gallon, Turtleback 3000 Class, Blue Goose conversion

                                                    scroll down and click on pictures to enlarge                                                           

12000 GALLON                               12000 GALLON                                              15000 GALLON                              15000 GALLON

20000 GALLON                              20000 GALLON                                               MALLET 12000 GALLON                 MALLET 12000 GALLON

TURTLEBACK 3000 CLASS             TURTLEBACK 3000 CLASS                          BLUE GOOSE CONVERSION          BLUE GOOSE CONVERSION

TRUCKS 12000/15000 GALLON                                 TRUCKS 20000 GALLON                                             TRUCKS MALLET/TURTLEBACK


KIT NUMBER/NAME and CONTENTS (see PRICELIST for prices)


TRUCKS WILL BE SUPPLIED UNPAINTED BUT ASSEMBLED IF TIME PERMITS, JUST ASK!


401 Steam engine tender 12K. complete kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, unassembled trucks, wheels (less coupler, decals)

402 Steam engine tender 15K. complete kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, unassembled trucks, wheels (less coupler, decals)

412 Steam engine tender 15K. brass etchings, unassmbled trucks, wheels (less body, coupler, decals)

410 Steam engine tender 12K and 15K. unassembled trucks and wheels (all wheel current pickup)

403 Steam engine tender 20K. complete kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, unassembled trucks, wheels (less coupler, decals)

413Steam engine tender 20K. unassembled trucks and wheels (all wheel current pickup)

404 Steam engine tender 12K MALLET. complete kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, trucks (MTL), wheels (less coupler, decals)

414 Steam engine tender 12K MALLET. brass etchings, trucks (MTL), wheels (less body, coupler and decals

405 Steam engine tender 12K TURTLEBACK. complete kit: cast resin body, brass etchings, trucks (MTL), wheels (less coupler, decals)

415 Steam engine tender 12K TURTLEBACK. brass etchings, trucks (MTL), wheels (less body, coupler, decals)


CLICK ON LINKS BELOW FOR COMPLETE SETS OF 3D PRINTED BODY PARTS 

12000 and 15000 GALLON TENDER

TENDER 12000 GALLON                                                         PARTS                  TENDER 15000 GALLON                                                         PARTS

TENDER 12000 GALLON                                 UNDERSIDE/TRUCKS                   TENDER 15000 GALLON                                UNDERSIDE/TRUCKS

TENDER 12000 GALLON                                                  DECODER                   TENDER 15000 GALLON                                                  DECODER

TENDER 12000 GALLON                                                    DECODER                 TENDER 15000 GALLON                                                  DECODER

Building instructions tendertrucks 12000/15000 gallon version.


TRUCKS WILL BE SUPPLIED UNPAINTED BUT ASSEMBLED IF TIME PERMITS, JUST ASK!


Please read these instructions carefully before starting to build your tendertrucks.


Very good and useful reference text and pictures can be found in the book Steam Locomotives of the Santa Fe, a former Shopman’s Scrapbook, by Frank M. Ellington, published by Railroad Car Press, the book Iron Horses of the Santa Fe Trail, by E.D. Worley, published by  the Southwest Railroad Historical Society, and on various internet websites. 


Remove the remnants of the casting ridge on top of the side frames with a small flat file if needed. Using the same small flat file carefully file the back of the sideframes. Only remove surface irregularities and take care the outside brakeshoes are not damaged. Using the 1,0 mm drill clean out the 3 holes in the back of the sideframe casting.

Bend the phosphor bronze etchings to a 90 degree angle, keeping the halfetch on the inside of the bend and holding the etching in a pair of pliers (lengthwise) with only the 4 tabs sticking out. This way the axle side of the etching will remain straight. Try to make the 90 degree bend in as few moves as possible. To strengthen the bend put a little solder on the inside of the bend. Simply heat the etching and let a little bit of resin core solder flow in once the etching is hot. Take care the solder will not flow too far onto the tabs or on the sides, or it will interfere with the wheels or the insulating styrene connecting the 2 halves. Excess solder can with filed away with a needle file or grinded away with the motor tool. Solder a short piece of thin and flexible electrical wire into the corner of the etching, making sure the wires are on the same side of the truck when assembled.

Attach the side frame castings AFTER you have adapted the wheelsets (see below) to avoid accidental damage to the brake hangers.

To glue the side frames to the phosphor bronze etchings insert the supplied 1,0 mm styrene rods into the 2 outer axle holes in the back of the casting. Slide the etching onto the 2 rods, making sure the tabs of the etching are near the top of the side frame casting. Using a toothpick or needle/nail place a little ACC glue on the back in the middle of the side frame. Not too much or the hole will flood. Press the etching against the sideframe. Remove the rods asap to avoid accidental glueing. Using the tootpick again, apply a very small drop of ACC on the topside of the etching against the top/back of the casting near the outer wheels. The glue will simple flow in. 

Depending on the wheels supplied (FVM wheels availability is erratic unfortunately) glue the 0,5 (or 1,0) mm wide side of 0,5 x 0,4 (or 1,0) mm styrene strip exactly in the middle of the supplied 6,3 x 1,0 mm styrene strip with styrene glue. This will give you enough time to position this “ridge” in the right place. It will act as an electrical barrier between the 2 0,4 mm thick etchings and will also make sure the side frames are positioned correctly to ensure the wheels will turn freely once the truck is assembled. Make sure this “ridge” is  straight and use a flat needle file to remove all excess glue or softened styrene.

In order to have all wheel current pickup 12 Fox Valley Models wheelsets 3301, 3302 or 3303 (depending on availabity) and 12 3D printed axle extensions (6 short and 6 long) are included. To create reliable all wheel current pickup and free rolling trucks no wheel wipers will be used. Therefore the metal wheelsets (with an insulated wheel on one side) have to be cut in half using the motor tool (USE EYE PROTECTION). The cut should be as close to the middle of the axle as possible but a little misalignment is no problem. Use the 12 all metal wheels for the tender trucks. Before inserting the wheels into the axle extensions remove all burrs from the cutting surface and make sure the axle ends are reasonably flat. Using a Kadee/NMRA wheel gauge frequently,  push or twist all axles gently into the short extensions (which have a division in the middle to avoid the axles from touching each other), making sure all 3 extensions end up roughly in the middle of the axle and all wheelsets are in exactly the same gauge.

(By the way: the insulated wheels can be pushed into the long extensions to be used in other cars that do not need current pickup. If a wheel comes loose in the process a tiny bit of ACC glue on the plastic bushing and some careful repositioning will solve this. Push one wheel all the way into the extension and the other almost all the way. Check the wheelset with a wheel gauge and adjust if necessary, but keep in mind that pulling the axle out of the extension is very difficult.)

The assembly of the truck is next. Check if all tabs are level and square. Adjust if necessary. Put a little ACC glue on the upside/ends of the 4 tabs of the first side frame assembly. Glue the styrene assembly with the “ridge” facing down on the upside of the tabs. Make sure the ends of the tabs are touching the styrene “ridge”. Put a little ACC glue on the upside of the tabs/ends of the other side frame assembly and glue against the “ridge” on the opposite side. Make sure all tabs are directly opposite one another. Turn the truck upside down and you will notice the “ridge” between the tabs. Remove the portion of this “ridge” between all 4 tabs (otherwise these will interfere with the axle extensions).

Drill a 1,2 mm hole ( for the truckpin/screw) from the underside in one of the cross bearers making sure it is exactly in the middle, not touching the brass etchings (otherwise the metal truckpin/screw could create an electrical short between the rails). Glue 2 pieces of 1,0 x 3,0 x 6,0 mm styrene on the underside of the 2 middle/wide tabs and 2 pieces of 1,0 x 1,0 x 6,0 mm styrene on the underside of the 2 outside/narrow tabs. Drill out the truckpin hole from the other side using the same 1,2 mm drill.

Insert the wheelsets. They should go in using very little force (just not fall out). If you have to spread the truck assembly too much (applying too much force) simply grind a little of the tip of the cone on the axle end (max 1/2 of the cone). The axles do/should not need this last piece of cone to stay in place inside the truckframes. If necessary you can slightly adjust the width between the axle holes by gripping the truck assembly lengthwise with pliers and adjust the position of the axle holes with another set of pliers. Take car to avoid any stress on the styrene center of the truck. The wheelsets should have a little lateral play between the sideframes. The  trucks should be very free rolling and supply excellent current pickup by now.

The trucks are attached to the floor/body using the 2 supplied wood screws (they allow more easy/frequent removal of the truck). Drill a 1,0 mm hole in the truck floor.


Building instructions superstructure 12000/15000 gallon version.


Pilot holes for the side handrails are provided in the shell and drilling jigs for the top hand railings and rear platform handrail are supplied in the edge of the fret. Use a 0,4 mm drill. Insert the brass parts (no glue) and apply a little ACC from the inside.

Holding top shell and floor/bottom togetheryou can drill four 1,0 mm holes into the four reinforced corners of the top shell (in case of the 3D printed shell you will have to add some 4 x 4 mm styrene reinforcement posts in the 4 corners). The supplied screws will self tap and will allow easy removal of the top shell. Because of the positioning of the 4 screws you will have to remove the trucks first before being able to remove the tender top shell.

There is ample room inside for a sound decoder, capacitor, sugar cube speaker and some extra lead weight (tender is too light otherwise and also see pictures above).

Drill two 3,0 mm holes in the tender floor next to each other between the trucks/tool boxes. These will allow easy passage (minimal strain) of the wire connection from the trucks to the inside of the tender.

Depending on the present drawbar of your engine you will have to use some ingenuity to make a fixed connection (see pictures above)

I have adapted several engines (see PICTURES) and in most cases some small pieces of styrene were glued (ACC) to the front and underside of the tender floor, creating a sturdy base (watch out for interference with the tender truck) to accept a 1,0 mm hole for the supplied extra wood screw.

You will have also have to make a small opening (size depending on number of wires) in the front of the tender shell for the wires running from engine to tender.

A MTL 1015 coupler (not supplied) will fit on the rear. You will have to remove the last (narrow) connection between left and right side of the rear truck, preferably using a grinding tool.

Apply a primer (certainly on the brass parts) before painting the tender black. Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 (diluted about 30 %) has given me excellent results. Regarding the trucks: remove the wheelsets and mask the brass axle holes with a small strip of masking tape.

Decals can be found on Microscale set 60-363.


 


20000 GALLON TENDER


TENDER 20000 GALLON                                                         PARTS                   TENDER 20000 GALLON                                 UNDERSIDE/TRUCKS

TENDER 20000 GALLON                                                   DECODER                   TENDER 20000 GALLON                                                  DECODER

Building instructions ATSF tendertrucks  20000 gallon version.


TRUCKS WILL BE SUPPLIED UNPAINTED BUT ASSEMBLED IF TIME PERMITS, JUST ASK!


Please read these instructions carefully before starting to build your tendertrucks.


Very good and useful reference text and pictures can be found in the book Steam Locomotives of the Santa Fe, a former Shopman’s Scrapbook, by Frank M. Ellington, published by Railroad Car Press, the book Iron Horses of the Santa Fe Trail, by E.D. Worley, published by  the Southwest Railroad Historical Society, and on various internet websites. 


Remove the remnants of the casting ridge on top of the side frames with a small flat file if needed. Using the same small flat file carefully file the back of the sideframes. Only remove surface irregularities and take care the outside brakeshoes are not damaged. Using the 1,5 mm drill clean out the 3 holes in the back of the sideframe casting.

Glue the 1,0 mm wide side of 1,0 x 0,4 mm styrene strip exactly in the middle of the 6,3 x 1,0 mm styrene strip with styrene glue. This will give enough time to position this “ridge” in the right place. It will act as an electrical barrier between the 2 0,4 mm thick etchings and will also make sure the side frames are positioned correctly to ensure the wheels will turn freely once the truck is assembled. Make sure this “ridge” is  straight; use a flat needle file to remove all excess glue or softened styrene.

Bend the phosphor bronze etchings to a 90 degree angle, keeping the halfetch on the inside of the bend and holding the etching in a pair of pliers (lengthwise) with only the 4 tabs sticking out. This way the axle side of the etching will remain straight. Try to make the 90 degree bend in as few moves as possible. To strengthen the bend put a little solder on the inside of the bend. Simply heat the etching and let a little bit of resin core solder flow in once the etching is hot. Take care the solder will not flow too far onto the tabs or on the sides, or it will interfere with the wheels or the insulating styrene connecting the 2 halves. Excess solder has to be filed away with a needle file or grinded away with the motor tool. Solder a short piece of thin and flexible electrical wire into the corner of the etching, making sure the wires are on the same side of the truck when assembled.

The assembly of the truck is next. Check if all tabs are level and square. Adjust if necessary. Put a little ACC glue on the underside/ends of the 4 tabs of the first side frame assembly. Glue the styrene assembly with the “ridge” facing up on the underside of the tabs. Make sure the ends of the tabs are touching the styrene “ridge”. Put a little ACC glue on the underside of the tabs/ends of the other side frame assembly and glue against the “ridge” on the opposite side. Make sure all tabs are directly opposite one another. To finish glue a strip of 6,3 x 0,5 mm styrene strip in the middle/axis of the truck on the topside.

Insert the wheelsets. In order to have all wheel current pickup 6 Kato 11-605 (silver) or 606 (black) 40 inch insulated wheels are included. Check the gauge using a NMRA/Kadee wheel gauge and adjust if need be. They should go in using little force. If you have to spread the truck assembly too much (applying too much force) check the side tabs and adjust. The axles should have ample lateral play and just not fall out.

Testfit the side frame castings to the phosphor bronze etchings. Check if the sideframes are not too low: turn the truck upside down and check if the sideframes clears the wheelthread by almost 1 mm. If not: file the top of the 2 protruding tabs on the back of the sideframe and be sure to keep these level.Once satisfied put some ACC on those tabs and attach to the etchings Using a toothpick or needle/nail let a little ACC glue flow between truck casting and etching from the topside.

Check once more if the wheelsets are in gauge. If need be the wheelsets can be adjusted while in the trucks (plastic axle inserts). Wheelsets can be removed for painting by inserting a small screwdriver between wheeldisk and brass etching tab and gently lifting(not too much force).

The  trucks should be free rolling and supply excellent current pickup by now.

Turn the tender floor upside down and hold the truck in its intended position against the underside of the tenderfloor to mark the location of the center of the truck pivot point. Drill a 1,2 mm hole. Do not overtighten the supplied screw to hold the truck. Keep in mind that BOTH truck brake cylinders are pointing towards the rear end of the tender. 


Building instructions superstructure 20000 gallon version.


Pilot holes for the side handrails are provided in the shell. Use a 0,4 mm drill to dril them out. Insert the brass parts (no glue) and apply a little ACC from the inside (see pictures above).

Holding top shell and floor/bottom together you can drill four 1,0 mm holes into the four reinforced corners of the top shell (in case of the 3D printed shell you will have to add some 4 x 4 mm styrene reinforcement posts in the 4 corners). The supplied screws will self tap and will allow easy removal of the top shell. Because of the positioning of the 4 screws you will have to remove the trucks first before being able to remove the tender top shell.

There is ample room inside for a sound decoder, capacitor, sugar cube speaker and some extra lead weight (tender is too light otherwise and also see pictures above).

Drill a 1,0 mm hole in the center of the truck kingpin plates.

Drill two 3,0 mm holes in the tender floor next to each other between the trucks/tool boxes. These will allow easy passage (minimal strain) of the wire connection from the trucks to the inside of the tender.

Depending on the present drawbar of your engine you will have to use some ingenuity to make a fixed connection (see pictures above)

I have adapted several engines (see PICTURES) and in case of this tender the protruding buffer has enough material to accept a screw or simple hole. For example on the modified Con-cor 4-6-4 number 3465 I cut of part of the extending trailing truck, drilled a 1,0 mm horizontal hole, inserted a L-shaped coupler hook and made an crosswise enlongated hole in the tender buffer. A simple sturdy connection with almost prototypical distance between tender and engine as a bonus.   

You will have also have to make a small opening (size depending on number of wires) in the front of the tender shell for the wires running from engine to tender.

A MTL 1015 coupler (not supplied) will fit on the rear. You will have to remove the last part of the truck frame (till the rear axle), preferably using a grinding tool.

Apply a primer (certainly on the brass parts) before painting the tender black. Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 (diluted about 30 %) has given me excellent results. Regarding the trucks: remove the wheelsets before airbrushing/painting the trucks by inserting a small screwdriver between the wheel and the brass axle bearing tab. Gently lift the wheel out. Cover the brass axle bearing holes with a small strip of masking tape.

Decals can be found on Microscale set 60-363.




MALLET AND TURTLEBACK TENDER

TENDER MALLET 12000 GALLON                                                           PARTS                         TENDER TURTLEBACK 3000 CLASS                                                              PARTS

TENDER MALLET 12000 GALLON                              UNDERSIDE/TRUCKS                         TENDER TURTLEBACK 3000 CLASS                                 UNDERSIDE/TRUCKS

TENDER MALLET 12000 GALLON                                    DECODER

TENDER MALLET 12000 GALLON                                    DECODER

Building instructions tendertrucks Mallet and Turtleback version.


TRUCKS WILL BE SUPPLIED UNPAINTED BUT ASSEMBLED IF TIME PERMITS, JUST ASK!


Please read these instructions carefully before starting to build your teNdertrucks.


Very good and useful reference text and pictures can be found in the book Steam Locomotives of the Santa Fe, a former Shopman’s Scrapbook, by Frank M. Ellington, published by Railroad Car Press, the book Iron Horses of the Santa Fe Trail, by E.D. Worley, published by  the Southwest Railroad Historical Society, and on various internet websites. 


The basic frame is the 6 wheel MTL passenger truck. To convert the trucks to all  wheel current pickup 12 Fox Valley Models wheelsets 3301 (fine tread) or 3310 (wide tread), 4 phosphor bronze etchings and 12 3D printed axle extensions (6 short and 6 long) are included. The wheelsets (one side has an insulated wheel) have to be cut in half using the motor tool with a grinding disk. The cut should be as close to the middle of the axle as possible but a little misalignment is no problem. Use the 12 all metal wheels for the tender truck. Remove all burrs from the cutting surface and make sure the axle ends are reasonably flat.

Solder a short piece of thin electrical wire to the larger tab on the brass etching. Take care to attach the wire pointing towards the center of the eching and as much as possible at the top of the tab. Remove too much solder with a file or the grinding disk before continuing. Make sure the wheels will not touch the solder or wire and remain free rolling after installation.

Solder a small piece of phosfor bronze 0,35 mm wire to the center tab (same side of etching as the wire), as flat as possible against the surface. Again remove all excess solder using a file or grinding disk. Bend the wire untill it is just over the two outer axle openings. This way the wire will assure/provide good electrical contact at all times between axle and frame. This way as little as possible extra drag is created. Unfortunately I discovered that the weight of the etchings alone is not enough to give uninterrupted contact all the time. 

Insert 3 all metal wheels through the holes in the first etching and push the axle ends a very short way onto the short axle extensions. The short axle extensions have a division in the middle to avoid the metal axles from touching each other and are shorter to give the wheelsets enough room to turn freely in the ethings  freely. Now insert 3 all metal wheels through the holes in the other etching and into the short axle extensions on the other side, making sure the tabs with the wire are next to each other. Using a Kadee/MTL/NMRA wheel gauge frequently, push or twist all axles gently a little further into the extensions, making sure all 3 extensions end up roughly in the middle of the axle and the wheelsets are in exactly the same gauge. The set should now be a drop in into the MTL truck. The ends of the truck sideframes can be spread a little if necessary.

(By the way: the insulated wheels can be pushed into the long extensions to be used in other cars that do not need current pickup. If a wheel comes loose of the axle in the process a tiny bit of ACC glue on the plastic bushing and some careful repositioning will solve this. Push one wheel all the way into the extension and the other almost all the way. Check the wheelset with a wheel gauge and adjust if necessary, but keep in mind that pulling the axle out of the extension is very difficult.) 


Building instructions superstructure Mallet and Turtleback version.


The cast resin shell has pilot holes for the handrailings and ladder. Drill out with a 0,4 mm drill. Insert these parts (no glue) and apply a little ACC from the inside.

Holding top shell and floor/bottom together you can drill four (mallet ) or three (turtleback) 1,0 mm holes into the reinforced corners of the top shell (in case of the 3D printed shell you will have to add some 4 x 4 mm styrene reinforcement posts in the corners).The supplied screws will self tap and will allow easy removal of the top shell. Because of the positioning of the screws you will have to remove the trucks first before being able to remove the tender top shell.

There is ample room inside for a sound decoder, capacitor, sugar cube speaker and some extra lead weight (tender is too light otherwise and also see pictures above).

Drill two 3,0 mm holes in the tender floor next to each other between the trucks/tool boxes. These will allow easy passage (minimal strain) of the wire connection from the trucks to the inside of the tender.

Depending on the present drawbar of your engine you will have to use some ingenuity to make a fixed connection (see pictures above)

I have adapted several engines (see PICTURES) and in case of these tenders a brass strip/screw connection was fabricated to connect to a pin under the floor of the engine.

You will have also have to make a small opening (size depending on number of wires) in the front of the tender shell for the wires running from engine to tender.

A MTL 1015 coupler (not supplied) will fit on the rear.

Apply a primer (certainly on the brass parts) before painting the tender black. Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 (diluted about 30 %) has given me excellent results.

Decals can be found on Microscale set 60-363.


 


20000 GALLON TENDER BLUE GOOSE CONVERSION

TENDER BLUE GOOSE 3460 CLASS                                                              PARTS                          TENDER BLUE GOOSE 3460 CLASS              SHAPEWAYS 3D PRINTED PARTS

The conversion of the 20000 gallon tender (see building instructions above) to the Blue Goose shrouded version consists of minor truck adjustments and applying the shrouding to the top and bottom.

The top shrouding requires minor filing adjustments to the 3D print and front corners of the tender to create a snug fit. Some ACC glue will do the rest.

Turning the shell upside down you have to adjust 4 halves (2 spares) to a snug fit between the tool boxes and end steps. This requires some filing on the 3D prints and filing and removal of some material at the base of the toolboxes with a sharp knife/scalpel. When satisfied glue the 4 stripsto the bottom of the tender floor (be careful not to attach/glue the top structure as well).

Last adjustment is to the trucks. Because of the lower side of the body (and you don't want to raise the tender/floor/coupler) you have to file the tops of the trucks down till they are level with the brass etching to allow for clearance between truck and superstructure on curves. This is of course unprototypical but hardly noticeable because the tops of the trucks normally disappear completely under the lower body. Everything being black also helps a lot. There should remain about 0,5 mm clearance between truck and underside of the shell. If need be add a tiny shim (see pictures). 

 

ATSF N Scale Models                           Dirk Jan Blikkendaal                            info@atsfnscalemodels.com                          © 2017